© 2006 Timeless Treasure Trunk
All rights reserved.

Brio Train Track Repair

Block Puzzle

Magic Bottle Holder

Making A Simple Drawer

Push Stick

Router Mill Jig

Spaghetti Measure Stick

Build Square


Picture Frame Basics

Draw an Ellipse

Saw Blade Basics

Working With MDF

Hand Tools

Power Tools


Work Area

About Painting

About Tools


Cedar Wishing Well

Double-sided Easel

Garden Oblisk

Spool Book Holder


The Wood Shoppe at Timeless Treasure Trunk

Simple projects and helpful methods of construction from the Timeless Treasure Trunk requiring a minimum of tools and skills. These projects are an excellent way to get started in the wonderful woodworking hobby.

Brio Train Track Repair

Tools required: Saw, drill, 1/4" bit.

This is a simple fix to repair broken connectors on Brio style track sections. Start by cutting off the broken piece and sanding the end smooth, locate the exact center of the track end and drill a 1/4" diameter hole about 3/4" deep.

To make a new connector you need a 1/2" diameter bead and a short length of 1/4" dowel. Make a jig to hold the bead so you can drill a 1/4" hole about half way through it by drilling a dimple in a scrap bit of wood. Hold the bead with a pair of pliers to prevent it from turning as it is drilled.

Glue a 1" length of 1/4" dowel into the bead, then insert the dowel with glue into the end of the track, adjust the position using another section of track as a gauge.

Train Track Router Bits
These carbide-tipped bits let you create classic wooden toy train tracks, similar to the expensive store-bought track. Double groove bit cuts both track grooves in a single pass (this bit can only be used for cutting straight track). 1/2" shanks. White Birch, Maple or European Beech stock recommended. Click here for your FREE Downloadable Train Track Plan

Train Track Router Bits

Train Track Router Bits

Block Puzzle

This puzzle is made up of different shaped pieces that fit on a square base. Base is made from 1/4" or thicker material, the puzzle pieces can be made any thickness, the different shapes could vary in thickness.

Cut out the pieces to the dimensions shown, they can be any thickness, all are based on 1 1/2" squares. The cut-out in the U-shaped pieces should be larger so the smaller piece fits into it easily. The pieces may be painted or left natural, use child safe finishes.

The base is made from a 13 1/2" square of material 1/4" or more thick with a 3/4" frame glued around the perimeter made of similar material.

Magic Bottle Holder

Tools required: Saw, drill, expansion bit.

Amaze your company with this gravity defying wine bottle holder, and give them one to take home when they leave.

Easy to make, just a board with a hole in it.

Cut a 2 3/4" wide board 8 1/4" long with one end cut at about a 40 degree angle, drill a 1 3/16" diameter hole with a hole saw or expansion bit 6 5/8" from angled end. You may have to sand the angle to adjust it to work, thickness of wood affects the balance.

Making a Simple Drawer

Tools required: saw, square, tape measure, hammer, drill and screwdriver.

A drawer is basically a box mounted on slides with a front attached to it. The box for this one is made out of plywood so we do not have to contend with wood movement that would occur with solid wood. The face of the drawer is material that matches or coordinates with the cabinet.

Blum low-profile 3/4 epoxy coated drawer slides
These epoxy coated drawer slides are among the quietest, smoothest and lowest profile (only 7/8'' ) slides on the market.

Blum low-profile 3/4 epoxy coated drawer slides

Blum low-profile 3/4 epoxy coated drawer slides

Step 1:

Measure the width, depth and height of the opening in the cabinet. If you are using standard drawer slides subtract 1" from each of the dimensions for the drawer box. Select appropriate drawer slides, use longest one possible.

Step 2:

Construct the box, use 1/2" plywood for the sides and ends, cut the sides to the length and height of the drawer dimensions, cut the front and back 1" shorter than the dimension of the drawer. If there will be dividers in the drawer cut the dados in the ends and sides now.

Fasten the four sides of the box together with glue and nails.

Step 3:

Cut a bottom to the overall dimensions of the drawer from 1/4" plywood, fasten it to sides and ends with glue and nails.

Step 4:

Fasten drawer slides to bottom of drawer, lining up front of slide 1/16" from front edge of drawer. Install drawer slides to sides of cabinet.

Follow instructions included with drawer slides.

Step 5:

Cut drawer front, 1" wider and 1" higher than opening in cabinet from suitable material, sand edges and finish with paint or stain to match cabinet.

Drill two 3/16" holes about 3" from edges and centered in front of drawer box, fasten drawer front with #8 wood screws so that it covers opening by 1/2" on all sides. Attach hardware to drawer front.

Cabinet Making Links

Making Your Own Cabinetry

Push Stick

Works for both a table saw and jointer.

Make two of these, use one to push the material through with your right hand and the other in your left hand to hold the material against the fence.

Cut out of 1/2" or thicker plywood or MDF.

Downloadable pattern.

Router Mill Jig

With this jig and a straight bit in your router you will be able to mill cupped or warped boards flat. This is also an excellent way to refinish worn wooden cutting boards.

Make the tray at least 8" longer and 2" wider than the board to be milled. Use straight 3/4" material for the base and side rails of the jig, make the side rails about 2" high so they will work for up to 1 1/2" thick material. Use any suitable material for the spacers, the wedges can be cut or they are available at building supply outlets. Make the router base plate from 1/2" thick MDF, it should be about 8" wide and twice as long as the tray is wide. Drill a hole large enough for the router bit to pass through in the center of the plate, fasten the router to the base plate with flat head machine screws, countersink the heads so they will not hit the side rails.

Lock the board into the tray with the high point up, if the board is twisted place spacers under the high spots on the ends to prevent it from rocking, have a spacer between the board and the side rail on one side and use the wedges between the spacer and the side rail on the other side. Set your router bit depth about 1/16" below the highest point on the board and run the router over the entire face of the board. If there are still low spots increase bit depth by another 1/16" and go over it again, continue until top is flat. Flip the board over and repeat on second side.

Spaghetti Measure Stick

Tools required: Saw, drill, expansion bit or hole saws.

This handy gauge measures the amount of spaghetti to cook for one to four persons. Make it out of 3/8" thick wood or plywood, drill the holes with an extension bit or a hole saw.

Download the plans, lay the hole template on the 2 1/4" X 9" board and mark the position of the holes with an awl, then drill the holes. Round the bottom corners and trace the top shape and cut with a scrollsaw or fret saw, sand all edges. Add the numbers below appropriate holes and drill a small hole in the top for hanging. This is actually short enough that it will fit in a storage jar with the spaghetti.

Building It Square

Assembling projects so that they are square is one of the most important aspects of woodworking, several factors come into play, measuring, cutting and glue up, all are important.


For a rectanglular object to have four square corners the opposite sides must be exactly the same length, this can be done several ways:

Cut both pieces at the same time.

Set up a stop system on the saw table if possible.

Use only one ruler or tape measure for the project.


Use the proper blade in your saw for the material and type of cut being made. Compound miter saws and radial arm saws use different blades than table saws. Different blades are used for ripping than for cross cuts. Most blades are labeled or there is information on the package regarding their use.

Rockler Woodworking has an excellent tutorial on saw blades, this includes a chart with the recommended blade for table saws, miter saws and radial arm saws to cut specified materials, a glossary of saw blade terms and Saw Blades 101 giving the low down on what to look for in a blade.

An easy way to check if your saw is cutting square is to make a cut with your miter gauge, then mark the two pieces as shown. Move them so they rest against the table saw fence, making sure that the edge that was against the miter gauge is now against the fence. Flip the board on the right over to rest on the left one, the X's are now facing each other. Any variation in the cut from being square will now be multiplied by two so it will be easier to see. It is now a matter of adjusting the miter gauge and testing, mostly by trial and error until the two ends are even.

This method may also be used for cutting with other saws, just mark the two parts and lay them against any straight edge.

Glue Up

This is usually the most difficult part, two hands seldom seem enough to keep everything lined up until the glue sets. There can never be to many clamps in a workshop, the more variety you have the easier assembly will be.

Use the 3 4 5 formula to check if a corner is square, measure three units on one side, four units on the other, then measure the distance diagonally, it will be five units if the corner is square.

Using this same principle a rectangle may be checked by measuring diagonally across opposite corners, if they are equal the corners are square.

Use a factory corner of a piece of plywood or hardboard as a base to work on, aligning the parts to the two edges of the plywood.

Another very useful invention are the corner clamping jigs that are on the market such as the one here:

Clamp-It® Assembly Square and Clamps
Align it, clamp it, and fasten it to get perfect 90 degree angles every time! Here's a solution that's so simple, you'll wonder why it took so long to develop!

Clamp-It® Assembly Square and Clamps

Clamp-It® Assembly Square and Clamps


There are many ways of fastening two boards together, the two most common methods are with nails or screws. With drill drivers so common screws are quickly becoming more popular and easier to use than nails. Their added strength and ease of removal is a bonus.

Sometimes nails are a feature of the project, in reproductions of antique furniture square nails are often used.

Box Nails
These nails are designed to look like the hand-forged nails of the late 1700s. Ideal for antique restoration. Choose from 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" long nails. Each package contains 50 nails.

Box Nails

Box Nails

Square head or Robertson (Canada) style screws are fast becoming the screw of choice with most woodworkers, the bit doesn't tend to slip out of the head when driving them and the screws stay on the bit even when pointing downward. There are also some styles that are a combination of square drive and Phillips heads, these are great to use when making a gift for someone that may have to be taken apart for some reason. Most people have a Phillips style screwdriver in their tool box but maybe not a square drive one.

Square Drive Power Bits Square Drive Power Bits
Square drive power bits have a hardened steel tip that guarantees a perfect fit and last longer with less stripouts. 1/4'' hex shank.Magnetic Bit Holder has hex shank. Magnetizes drive bits...

Square Drive Power Bits

Dowels are a strong and convenient method for fastening, only basic tools are required for a simple joint. The reason dowels are so strong is that they increase the surface area that is bonding the two boards.

Dowel Pin Assortment Kit Dowel Pin Assortment Kit
Assortment kit has 500 hardwood spiral dowel pins...

Dowel Pin Assortment Kit

Miller Dowel System
Voted one of the hot new tools from the 2002 Show Circuit by Wood Magazine! Miller Dowel has reintroduced peg construction with distinct advantages over standard dowel construction. BONUS OFFER Now get a 1X Miller Dowel System, Clamp-It and two Mini-Clamps for one low price. Review the Miller Dowel Simple Process

Miller Dowel System

Miller Dowel System

Biscuits, small football shaped disks, are replacing dowels in many shops, the only drawback is that an additional tool, a plate joiner, is required. These are especially handy when gluing up panels to keep the boards lined up.

Porter-Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner, Model No. 557
7.5 amp motor delivers plenty of bite. Includes 2'' and 4'' diameter blades for standard and face frame biscuits.

Porter-Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner, Model No. 557

Porter-Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner, Model No. 557

The Kreg Company has come up with another system for joining boards together, I have one of these and I love it. This system allows you to easily make strong joints in just about any configuration.

The Rocket Jig by Kreg
Quick and easy professional quality pocket holes.

The Rocket Jig by Kreg

The Rocket Jig by Kreg

Whatever system you use the end result will be as strong as the glue you use, with the proper gluing the joint is usually stronger than the wood it is holding together. The secret to a good bond is adequate glue and proper clamping pressure. The joints must be a good fit before the glue is applied, use just enough pressure on the clamps to hold the boards in position, excess pressure squeezes the glue out and starves the joint. Any glue that does squeeze out may be removed immediately with a damp cloth or later when it sets with a scraper. Always dry fit a project before gluing and while doing this line up the clamps that will be required.

Titebond! Titebond!" III Ultimate Wood Glue
Superior waterproof wood glue is ideal for exterior and interior woodworking! Available in five sizes. Stronger, safer, easier to clean up and less expensive than polyurethane glues. Allows eigh..

Titebond!" III Ultimate Wood Glue

Clamps, clamps, clamps, you can never have too many clamps, there are styles for just about any application imaginable. Quick-Grip style clamps are a bit expensive, but you only buy them once and after using them you will never want to use anything else for day to day use.

Screw Styles

There are many different styles of screws for use in woodworking, the two most obvious differences will be in the pattern of the slot or socket and the shape of the head. Screws will be commonly made from steel or brass, many steel screws are now colored to match the material they are used to fasten.

Slot Styles


This is the traditional style of head found on old furniture, this type of screw is not easy to work with, screwdriver bits tend to slip out of the slot rounding the edges and rendering it nearly impossible to finish driving or to remove it.


This cross style slot was a big improvement over the straight slots, we can thank Henry Ford for making this so popular, he adopted it for use in his auto assembly line.

Square Drive

Long used in Canada under the Robertson name this style is fast becoming the standard used by woodworkers.

Head Styles

Flat Head

Used where the screw head is to be hidden or where there is no clearance for the head such as with butt hinges. Use of this type of head requires a countersink bit.

High Speed Steel Countersink High Speed Steel Countersink
Make quick, accurate chamfers in wood, metal and other materials. 1/4" shank, single flute, and 82º angle. Fits quick-change chuck (#69015)...

High Speed Steel Countersink

Round Head

Used in situations where the screw is exposed or accentuated such as strap hinges.

Picture Frame Basics

You cut your boards, add some glue and try to get them to all meet up together with tight joints and stay that way until the glue dries, what could be easier than that, possibly rocket science you say.

There are two secrets to making picture frames, accurate cutting and efficient clamping.


The miters must be exactly 45 degree for square corners, yet even with careful measuring and an accurate trimmer the corners still won't fit unless the two opposite sides are exactly the same length.

Miter Trimmer
No more planning, no more sanding, and no more tear-out on pre-finished frame moldings with this revolutionary miter trimmer!

Miter Trimmer

Miter Trimmer


Picture frames or boxes with mitered corners require a clamp that will hold the entire unit together, like the one shown below.

Clampmate Frame Clamp
Tightens all four corners simultaneously for ease of use.

Clampmate Frame Clamp

Clampmate Frame Clamp

Custom Made Picture Frames

Draw An Ellipse

A common shape in woodworking is that of the ellipse, often confused with an oval, which is actually two half circles joined by two straight lines. An ellipse is a complex shape, which is described by a complicated formula that few understand, it has no straight lines, it is all curves. Layout the pattern on heavy paper on a sheet of plywood, you have to drive nails into it so don't try to do it on the actual project material. You can draw the entire oval or just the top half to make a pattern and flip it over to trace the bottom half.

Draw a line AB that equals the length and a line CD that equals the width of the required ellipse so that the mid points intersect and they are perpendicular to each other. These are the blue lines. Drive a finishing nail at point A and point B, using a type of string that will not stretch, tie a loop in the end and loop it around the nail at A, pull it across and tie another loop in it so it is tight when looped around nail at B. Remove the nails and drive one in at C, loop both ends around this nail, pull the double ply of string back toward the line AB with a nail in the loop and drive a nail in the spot where it intersects line AB at E. Do the same to establish point F and drive another nail there, this is represented by the red lines. Remove the nail at C and loop the ends of the string around the nails at E and F, place the point of a pencil in the loop formed by the string and starting at A draw an arc around the top ending at B, move the loop in the string to the other side of F and draw an arc from B around the bottom to end at A.

If you lay the ellipse out on a sheet of 1/4" plywood or hardboard and carefully cut it out you can then use this as a template to cut your project material with a router and a flush trim pattern bit.

Pattern Flush Trim Router Bit Pattern Flush Trim Router Bit
Top quality bits that meet the high demands of Rockler Woodworking and Hardware...

Pattern Flush Trim Router Bit

Working With MDF

With the high cost of material these days more and more alternatives to natural wood are being used, especially for painted projects. MDF (medium density fiberboard) has become a popular choice, it is relatively inexpensive, stable in dry conditions and easy to work with.

Finishing the edges.

Though the faces of MDF paint very well, the raw edges will soak paint up like a sponge and look duller than the face unless a filler is applied. With the filler the edges will paint up just like the face

1. Sand with some 150 or so grit paper.
2. Apply spackle to the edge.
3. When dry sand with 180 grit.
4. Seal with shellac.
5. Sand with 220 grit and paint it up.


A special type of screws should be used to fasten MDF, called confirmant screws, they are engineered to grip the material much better than normal tapered style screws.

Confirmat Screws
Ideal for particle board.

Confirmat Screws

Confirmat Screws

MDF is a very heavy material per square foot so a common joint used in furniture making utilizes knockdown fittings so the article can be taken apart easily to be moved.

Minifix (KD) Fittings
An ideal choice of knockdown fittings when clamping is difficult on large assemblies. This exceptionally strong mechanical fastener is great for both knock down fittings and permanent joints.

Minifix (KD) Fittings

Minifix (KD) Fittings

Saw Blade Basics

Hand saw, band saw and scrollsaw blades have characteristics that affect how they perform.

The cutting ability of a blade depends on three factors, rake, pitch and set.


This is the angle at which the teeth are ground, cross-cut saws have a negative rack, rip saws have a zero rake, very aggressive speciality blades would have a positive rake..


This is the teeth per inch on a straight blade.


The teeth are offset on each side of the blade on a straight set blade, on fine toothed blades they may have a wavy set in which several teeth in a row will be offset to the same side.

The width of a cut a blade makes is known as the kerf.

Scrollsawers often use blades that are specially made for specific tasks that will have combinations of characteristics built into them.

Scroll Saw Blades
The standard of the industry, these blades offer versatility and reliable service.

Scroll Saw Blades

Scroll Saw Blades

Circular saw blades are also designed for specific uses, three factors have to be considered, type of material, type of saw and direction of cut. Finer blades, more teeth to the inch, are used for plywood to prevent the bottom of the cut from splintering. Radial arm and miter saws require a blade with a negative rake, table saws a positive rake. A coarser blade is used for ripping than cross cutting, many home shops use a combination blade which is designed to work in both situations.

Miter Saw Blade


Cross cut blade


Rip Blade


Combo Blade